Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide lists a 1,000 square foot asphalt driveway at about $5,000 to $12,000, or $5 to $12 or more per square foot. Angi's range is $7 to $15 per square foot. Tear-out, extra base and edging add to that. The written estimate is your price.

For most driveways, a dense hot-mix surface course placed 2 to 3 inches thick over a well-compacted stone base. The base matters more than the mix. Driveways for boats, campers or trucks need a thicker section of both.

Every few years, once the surface has faded and stone starts showing. HomeGuide gives a range of 2 to 10 years by product and climate. Fill cracks first, and wait 3 to 6 months after new paving before the first coat.

Yes. Many associations set rules on timing, materials and appearance. We work within them and can provide a written scope for approval.

Late spring through early fall, when the ground is warm and dry. Many homeowners prefer spring or fall to avoid summer traffic on Route 37 and the barrier island routes.

Yes. Raised homes often need a new driveway grade, firm edges and drainage planning. We look at the new layout and the flood path at the estimate.

Cost guides put asphalt driveway life at 15 to 30 years. On sand, a compacted, confined base and regular sealing push it toward the long end.

Most residential driveways are one to two days: removal and base, then paving. Rain or a lot of base work can add time.

Porous asphalt lets water pass through to a stone reservoir below. HomeGuide lists it at $7 to $15 per square foot. It works best on sandy soil that drains; on lots with high groundwater it is less useful.

Yes. We can pave to existing block or install a block border as part of the job.

It depends on the town and whether the work reaches the road. We check with the township, county or NJDOT before any apron work.

Every few years, when the surface has faded and stone shows. HomeGuide's range is 2 to 10 years.

Usually 12 to 72 hours depending on heat, humidity and shade.

Yes. Neighbors and HOAs often schedule together, which makes it easier for everyone.

We hand-edge and mask along block, pavers and concrete to keep sealer off them.

When it has faded to gray, stones are loosening and water soaks in instead of beading.

If it is now higher than the garage floor or walk, we recommend milling the old layers or replacing it instead.

Over a stable slab it can work, but joints and cracks tend to show through.

On a sound base, many years. On a failed base, cracks can return within a year or two.

New asphalt is darker at first. A sealcoat later evens out the color.

Spreading spiderweb cracks, sunken areas, water pumping through cracks or several stacked overlays.

Late summer or fall, before freezing weather, when the pavement is dry.

The material under it is loose or wet. A saw-cut repair digs it out and rebuilds the base.

Yes. If the apron is in the road right-of-way, we check with the township, county or NJDOT first.

As a temporary winter fix, yes. For a lasting repair, the area should be cut out and rebuilt with hot-mix.

Often yes: repairs first, then crack filling, then sealing once everything has set.

Spring or fall, before or after the summer shore traffic, and early mornings during business days.

Yes. We work in sections and give management a schedule for resident notices.

HomeAdvisor suggests every 2 to 5 years depending on traffic.

Yes, with accessible spaces laid out to the 2010 ADA Standards.

Yes. We provide a phased plan with costs by year.

According to the Department of Justice, restriping triggers the 2010 ADA Standards for accessible parking.

A small lot is often done in a few hours, and paint dries quickly in warm weather.

Yes, including reserved and visitor spaces.

If the asphalt is faded, sealing first gives the lines a clean background.

Busy lots often need a light restripe every year or two.